The Cumbria Way

Difficulty: Hard

Length: 79.39 miles

///crackles.learn.staining

Day 1

Leaving the village of Ulverston you quickly head uphill into the pleasant farmland and rolling hills of southern Cumbria, make sure to look behind yourself at the Sir John Barrow Monument (looks like a big lighthouse) sat on the hill above the village. This farmland gradually turns more rugged and into an upland environment with rocky outcrops and tarns amongst the sheep farms and isolated buildings. Gradually you drop down to Coniston Water and after a walk along its banks in pretty woodland you reach the campsite for day 1, Hoathwaite Farm.

Campsite: Hoathwaite Farm campsite

Day 2

A long day today at around 17.5 miles including a detour off the main route to visit the very impressive Cathedral Cave. Today starts with an easy walk along the banks of Coniston Water but gradually gets steeper as you head off into the hills. Shortly you reach the beautiful surroundings of Tarn Hows an ideal place for a quick break and maybe a paddle, although not there when I went past it apparently has a small coffee/ice cream shop during the summer months. Not long after the Tarn you turn off onto my lengthy diversion to visit the National Trust Cathedral Quarry, well worth a visit to see its huge central chamber and many passageways. If a shorter day is wanted you could miss this section and just stick to the official route. Following the river you then pass Colwith Falls and Skelwith Force waterfalls before heading towards Elterwater Village where some supplies and cup of tea can be found if needed. Continue along the Great Langdale Beck and onto the rugged hillsides of the Langdale Valley before dropping down to the Great Langdale National Trust Campsite.

Campsite: Great Langdale National Trust Campsite

Day 3

A stunning day starting flat then after just a couple of miles challenging you with  a huge climb up Langdale Combe and through Stake pass. This is not for the faint hearted but many big rocks can provide a resting spot on the way up and is well worth it for the views. You quickly drop down into a valley filled with waterfalls and rivers but be warned the path here is hard work with rocky ankle breaking paths for many miles (a path on the opposite side of the river did look better and can be used as an alternative if needed, look at your map though!). Eventually you reach civilization again and enter the steeply wooded valley of Borrowdale and the Hollows Farm campsite.

Campsite: Hollows Farm campsite

Day 4

Day 4 – An easy start to the day following the banks, quiet lanes and gravel tracks that run along the edge of Derwent Water. After a couple of hours you reach the bustling town of Keswick with its numerous outdoor shops and cafes, perfect for some essentials, repairs or just a cuppa! A steep, long climb takes you out of Keswick and onto open moorland above Latrigg, if wanted you could follow the path to the viewpoint here. From the Latrigg carpark you head away from the tourists and into the wilds of the Lonscale Fells, on a high rocky path clinging to the hillside you walk past waterfalls, old quarries and sheepfolds until you see the isolated building of Skiddaw Bunkhouse Youth Hostel. (YHA Skiddaw Bunkhouse has a small number of camping spaces in the field in front of the hostel.)

Campsite: Skiddaw Bunkhouse Youth Hostel

Day 5 (fair weather route)

Heading away from the hostel on gravelled moorland tracks you soon reach the next beautiful valley and todays main challenge. Although not as steep as Stake Pass the path is even worse being a mixture of rocky, muddy flowing water and big areas of marshy moorland. That said it is a beautiful and amazingly quiet route up with old mining remains and waterfalls everywhere you look. When you finally reach the top you see the refuge of Lingy Hut bothy, this is an ideal spot to get your stove out for a brew before continuing up to the highest point of the walk at High Pike. Following the path quickly down you soon reach the lanes and fields surrounding the village of Caldbeck and tonight’s camp.

Campsite: Caldbeck campsite

Day 6

Although less wild and lacking some of the grandeur of the last few days this section still provides pleasant walking in the pastures and meadows of this northern corner of Cumbria. Mostly following the river Caldew the path can get boggy in places and a diversion had (In June 24) been put in place to avoid a large landslip in Sebergham woods. After some miles you reach the first village on route and the excellent Bridge End Inn where a welcome lunch and sit down can be found. After this it is I’m afraid quite a slog back to Carlisle joining a tarmacked cycle route that follows the river, easy walking but hard on the feet after 6 days walking.

Tips

• Map reading skills essential as signposting on route is poor in places.

• Hiking pole highly recommended.

• Sturdy waterproof boots and clothing essential

• Practice with your rucksack before going on this walk, if backpacking you need to be able to carry a heavy weight for many miles over uneven terrain. Luggage transfer services can be provided from companies in the lake district or hotels/B&B’s found on route.

• Consider buying food for just 3 days then stocking up at Keswick, this will reduce the weight considerably.

• GPS signal was fine for the whole walk but mobile is not guaranteed, some areas not having a signal all day. If walking on your own suggest using a system such as OS Locate where you can send location updates to a designated person to let them know you are OK. At times you may need to borrow a pubs WiFi but this is just another reason to have a drink!