Hardwick Hall and Stainsby Mill

Hardwick: A Tapestry of Time, Stone, and Spirit in the Derbyshire Countryside

Nestled amidst the rolling hills of Derbyshire, near the charming village of Doe Lea, lies a landscape steeped in history and architectural grandeur: the Hardwick Estate. This sprawling domain is home to two remarkable structures, each telling a distinct chapter in the story of a powerful and fascinating woman: Hardwick Hall and its predecessor, Old Hardwick Hall. Together, they stand as potent reminders of Elizabethan ambition, wealth, and the enduring legacy of Bess of Hardwick.

Hardwick Hall: "More Glass Than Wall"

The later of the two structures, and arguably the more iconic, is Hardwick Hall. Built between 1590 and 1597 by Elizabeth Talbot, Countess of Shrewsbury, better known as Bess of Hardwick, this magnificent edifice is a testament to her formidable will and considerable fortune. Its striking design, characterised by its vast expanses of windows – famously inspiring the rhyme "Hardwick Hall, more glass than wall" – was revolutionary for its time, symbolising wealth, modernity, and a bold departure from the more fortified structures of earlier periods.

Stepping inside Hardwick Hall is like stepping back in time. The Long Gallery, stretching an impressive 166 feet, is adorned with intricate plasterwork friezes depicting hunting scenes and mythological figures. The state rooms, furnished with exquisite tapestries, needlework (much of it crafted by Bess herself), and period furniture, offer a glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of the Elizabethan elite. The sheer scale of the house, its soaring ceilings, and the abundance of light flooding through the numerous windows create an atmosphere of airy grandeur.

Hardwick Hall was not merely a dwelling; it was a statement. Its prominent position atop a hill commanded the landscape, projecting an image of power and influence. The initials "ES" (Elizabeth Shrewsbury) are prominently displayed on the parapets of the six towers, a lasting mark of its remarkable builder. After Bess's death in 1608, the hall passed through her descendants, the Cavendish family, later Dukes of Devonshire, who maintained it for centuries. Today, owned and managed by the National Trust, Hardwick Hall welcomes visitors to explore its architectural splendour, its rich collections, and the compelling story of its indomitable creator.

Old Hardwick Hall: A Ruin Whispering Tales of the Past

Just a short distance from its grander successor lies the evocative ruin of Old Hardwick Hall. This earlier house was built for Bess of Hardwick and her second husband, Sir William Cavendish, beginning in the 1580s. Though now roofless and partially dilapidated, the remaining stonework and the layout of the building offer a fascinating insight into the architectural styles and living arrangements of the late 16th century.

Old Hardwick Hall was likely intended as a more modest dwelling compared to the later hall. However, even in its ruined state, one can discern the quality of the craftsmanship and the ambition of its design. The impressive gatehouse, with its intricate carvings and heraldic shields, still stands as a testament to its former glory. Walking through the skeletal remains of the great hall and the various chambers allows visitors to imagine the life that once unfolded within its walls.

The reasons for abandoning Old Hardwick Hall in favor of the new hall are not entirely clear, but it is likely that Bess, ever the ambitious builder, desired a more modern and impressive residence befitting her growing status and wealth. The juxtaposition of the two halls provides a unique opportunity to trace the evolution of architectural tastes and the changing fortunes of the Hardwick family.

The Hardwick Estate: A Landscape Shaped by History

The two halls are set within a wider estate, a landscape that has been shaped by centuries of human activity. Parkland, gardens, and woodlands surround the buildings, offering picturesque views and a sense of tranquility. The formal gardens around Hardwick Hall, with their meticulously manicured lawns, herbaceous borders, and water features, reflect the later landscaping tastes of the estate's owners. In contrast, the grounds around Old Hardwick Hall possess a more natural and atmospheric quality, the ruins blending seamlessly with the surrounding greenery.

The estate also bears witness to the industrial past of the region. Coal mining once played a significant role in the local economy, and remnants of this history can still be found within the landscape. The careful management of the estate by the National Trust ensures that its historical and ecological significance is preserved for future generations.   

Doe Lea: A Village Rooted in the Landscape

Just a stone's throw from the Hardwick Estate lies the charming village of Doe Lea. While perhaps less grand than the nearby halls, Doe Lea has its own quiet history, deeply intertwined with the surrounding land. The name "Doe Lea" likely derives from the River Doe Lea, which meanders through the area.

Historically, Doe Lea would have been a small agricultural community, its inhabitants likely working on the land or providing services to the nearby estates, including Hardwick. As the industrial revolution swept through Derbyshire, the village would have experienced changes, with some residents potentially finding employment in the local mines.

Today, Doe Lea retains a peaceful and rural character. Its proximity to the Hardwick Estate makes it a popular base for visitors exploring the historical sites. The village offers a glimpse into the everyday life of a Derbyshire community, a contrast to the grandeur of the nearby halls but an integral part of the wider historical and social fabric of the region.