Alport Castles
Difficulty: Medium
Length: 12.6 miles
This circular walking route offers a fantastic opportunity to explore the scenic beauty of the Peak District, taking in the iconic Alport Castles, the tranquil Howden Reservoir, and the historic Derwent Dam. Starting from the small car park just beyond the war memorial, a short distance from the main Fairholmes car park at the top of the road (grid reference approximately SK180884), this trail provides a varied landscape and memorable vistas.
Your adventure begins by following the clearly defined track that ascends into the woodland adjacent to the car park. Be prepared for an initial steep climb, which rewards your effort with breathtaking panoramic views overlooking the magnificent Kinder Plateau. This initial ascent sets the tone for a walk that combines a good workout with stunning scenery, making it a popular choice for hikers seeking both challenge and natural beauty in the Peak District National Park.
Continuing onwards, the path leads you onto the open moorland. You'll cross a stile as the trail gently climbs, with helpful flagstones guiding your steps across the moor. As you traverse this section, keep an eye out for the first glimpses of the dramatic Alport Castles in the distance. These unique gritstone formations, the result of a significant landslip, resemble ancient ruins and provide a captivating focal point for your walk. The reward for your continued effort is the increasingly impressive views of these natural wonders.
The route then begins to descend towards the serene waters of Howden Reservoir. At this point, you'll turn your course towards the head of the reservoir, following the path that contours its edge. This section includes a water crossing, which can be straightforward during drier periods, but requires sturdy, waterproof footwear. Walkers should exercise caution here, and those without suitable footwear can remain on the main path to rejoin the route safely further along.
Upon reaching the top end of Howden Reservoir, take a moment to appreciate the historic old bridge, a testament to the area's rich heritage. As you begin your return journey, you'll be treated to picturesque views of the impressive Howden Dam. The path from here back towards Fairholmes is well-maintained and offers easy walking. You'll eventually reach the Derwent Dam and the main Fairholmes Car park, where you can indulge in a well-deserved ice cream or a refreshing coffee at the visitor facilities. For the final leg back to your starting point, you can choose to follow the path alongside the reservoir or opt for the road.
This Alport Castles walk, taking in Howden and Derwent Reservoirs from the Fairholmes area, is a must-do for those exploring the Peak District. It offers a blend of challenging climbs, rewarding views, and historical interest, making it a truly memorable experience. Remember to wear appropriate footwear and check the weather conditions before setting out to fully enjoy this remarkable Peak District trail.
Further Information
Alport Castles, Howden and Derwent Dams, and the Dam Busters: A Story of Landscape, Engineering, and Wartime Significance
The dramatic landscape of the Peak District in Derbyshire is home to Alport Castles, a unique natural landslip, and the impressive engineering feats of the Howden and Derwent dams. While Alport Castles stands as a testament to geological forces, the dams played a crucial, albeit indirect, role in one of the most famous Royal Air Force (RAF) operations of the Second World War: the "Dam Busters" raid.
Alport Castles: Nature's Fortress
Alport Castles is not a true castle but a spectacular landslip feature. Believed to be the largest in the UK, this half-mile-long mass of gritstone cliffs and mounds dramatically rises from the valley. The name "castles" comes from the way the weathered rock formations resemble ancient fortifications, with the most prominent outcrop known as "The Tower." This natural wonder, formed over millennia by the erosion of softer shale beneath the harder gritstone, offers breathtaking views and a challenging yet rewarding experience for hikers.
The Howden and Derwent Dams: Engineering Marvels
In the early 20th century, the rapid industrial growth of the East Midlands and South Yorkshire created an immense demand for water. The Upper Derwent Valley, with its high rainfall and narrow points suitable for dam construction, was identified as the ideal location for a series of reservoirs.
Construction on the Howden Dam began in 1901 and was completed in 1912. A substantial masonry dam, it harnessed the River Derwent to create a vital water source. Just downstream, work on the Derwent Dam commenced in 1902, finishing in 1916. Built with similar neo-Gothic architectural features, these two dams formed significant reservoirs that supplied water to Sheffield, Derby, Nottingham, and Leicester. The construction of these dams was a massive undertaking, requiring the creation of a temporary village, "Tin Town," to house the over 1,000 workers and a special railway to transport the vast quantities of stone needed.
World War II and the "Dam Busters"
During the Second World War, the Howden and Derwent dams took on an unexpected significance. Their design and the surrounding landscape bore a striking resemblance to the major dams in Germany's Ruhr Valley – the Möhne, Eder, and Sorpe dams – which were crucial to the Nazi war effort for their supply of water for industry and hydroelectric power.
Recognising this similarity, the RAF's newly formed 617 Squadron, later known as the "Dam Busters," used the Howden and Derwent reservoirs for low-level flying practice runs in preparation for Operation Chastise. Under the leadership of Wing Commander Guy Gibson, pilots practised flying at extremely low altitudes over the water, honing the skills necessary to deploy the revolutionary "bouncing bomb" developed by Barnes Wallis. The still waters and the long, straight stretches of the reservoirs provided an ideal training environment for the daring mission.
On the night of May 16-17, 1943, 19 Lancaster bombers of 617 Squadron attacked the German dams. The Möhne and Eder dams were breached, causing significant flooding and disruption to German industry. While the Sorpe dam sustained only minor damage, the raid was a significant morale boost for the Allies and demonstrated the ingenuity and bravery of the RAF aircrews.
Tragically, 53 of the 133 airmen who participated in the raid were killed, and eight aircraft were lost. Despite the heavy losses, the "Dam Busters" raid remains a legendary example of precision bombing and the innovative use of technology in wartime.
Legacy and Remembrance
Today, the Howden and Derwent dams continue to serve their original purpose of providing water to the region and are also popular recreational destinations. The area around the dams retains a strong connection to the "Dam Busters" raid. A commemorative plaque on the Derwent Dam pays tribute to the 617 Squadron, and for many years, one of the dam's towers housed a small museum dedicated to the squadron and its famous mission. Occasional flypasts by the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight, often featuring a Lancaster bomber (PA474 City of Lincoln), serve as poignant reminders of the area's wartime history.
Alport Castles, while not directly involved in the war effort, provides a stunning backdrop to this historical landscape. The dramatic beauty of the natural landslip, combined with the impressive man-made structures of the Howden and Derwent dams, creates a powerful reminder of both the forces of nature and the remarkable achievements of human engineering, forever linked by the daring exploits of the "Dam Busters.